The methods of displaying the environmental cost of clothing, which will remain optional, were published Tuesday at the “Official Journal”, in France, among a salvo of decrees.
This Ecoscore will come into force on October 1ᵉʳ and may be deployed by fashion brands voluntarily – some have already set it up.
It is in the form of a encrypted score, in points, allowing consumers to compare the impact of products to help them choose more virtuous clothing or accessories. The higher the figure, the greater the environmental impact.
Brands will be able to mention it directly on a product label or via a QR code, or even in a dematerialized manner on their website.
It takes into account different parameters, such as water consumption, greenhouse gas emissions, toxicity but also the possibilities of recycling or repair, the release of microplastic fibers (which is rejected during washing) and a “fast fashion coefficient” which takes into account the production volumes.
Reluctance
Initially provided for by the climate and resilience law (2021), this display was originally compulsory in 2024. But the project had lagged behind, in particular in the face of the reluctance of certain textile sector professionals who denounced, among other things, the complexity of its implementation and were concerned to have to apply a system that European legislation would make it for textile display.
The non-binding nature has therefore become the solution so that the system is sustainable in the European framework, especially in the long term, the European Union wishes to develop a compulsory environmental display, the cabinet of the Minister of Ecological Transition Agnès Pannier-Runacher told AFP on Tuesday.
The latter cited as an example the Nutriscore, also on the basis of volunteering but which has carved out a good place on the shelves of large areas.