In Rome, even carbonara can now do without guanciale, eggs and pecorino. Near the central station, the family restaurant “Rifugio Romano” revisits the classics of Roman cuisine in entirely vegan versions.
Long dedicated to traditional recipes, the establishment gradually changed course before adopting a completely plant-based menu in 2023. “I didn’t want a sad vegan menu, but a rich menu, so that the dishes had the same taste,” explains its owner, Rosa Liotta, 63, to AFP.
Seitan in carbonara
Rather than abandon iconic recipes, the family is replacing their ingredients. In carbonara, seitan takes the place of meat. Mushrooms replace steak in other preparations, while seaweed brings marine notes to risotto.
“Cooking is conviviality, it’s being together, joking, laughing and having a good evening,” says chef Davide Leo. For him, eating plant-based must remain compatible with the pleasure of a table shared between vegetarians, vegans and omnivores.
The formula also appeals to the latter. Claudia Brugnoli, who usually eats meat, says she discovered “that you can eat well even if you give it up.” Her friend Simonetta Fariselli, a vegan for fifteen years, is delighted to be able to rediscover the flavors of Roman cuisine without animal products.
The phenomenon goes beyond this single restaurant. According to the Eurispes institute, the proportion of Italians declaring themselves vegan increased from 0.6% in 2014 to 3.2% in 2026. Enough to gradually shake up Roman cuisine traditionally very attached to pork, pecorino and eggs.
And for Rosa Liotta, the best surprise is seeing non-vegan customers arrive: “They understand that we don’t just eat salad.”
