Unmissable dish for British gastronomy, the “Pie and Mash”, literally “pie and mash”, is at the center of a campaign aimed at making it a protected name, in the same way as Champagne or Parmesan.
In a “Pie and Mash Shop” in eastern London, controls follow and look alike: here no card, only a dish. A beef pie accompanied by a mash ball. All washed down with a parsley sauce called liquor.
The G Kelly restaurant serves customers continuously looking for a simple and inexpensive dish (five pounds on average, or 5, 70 €).
Originally from the London docks, this dish first popular with workers, has become a must-have of the Tablées from across the Channel.
So much so that a conservative deputy, Richard Holden, wants to make a protected name. A bill to this effect was filed at the end of 2024 in Parliament and received the support of a dozen deputies.
“It was time!” Enthuses Daniel Terrance between two pieces of pie, his third of the week.
“Heritage”
The 39 -year -old electrician, who tastes his dish with traditional accompaniment based on jelly eels, says he does not get tired of this dish.
If English cuisine still drags a bad reputation today, especially among the French, defenders of “Pius and Mash”, who was born in the 19th century, believe hard as iron in their chance to win this protected appellation.
Next step: have the flat recipe approved by the Ministry of the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) in order to obtain the “traditional guaranteed specialty” label (TSG).
This label legally protects traditional recipes, but differs from labels attributed to foods such as Parma ham because it authorizes their manufacture outside of a precise geographical area.
Neil Vening, owner of the G Kelly hopes that the label will prevent large distribution from producing and selling lower quality pies.
“It is an attack on our great heritage,” assures AFP Mr. Vening, 33, showing the black and white photos of family members and staff, around the store founded by George Kelly in 1939.
Victim of gentrification
Large distribution is not the only danger.
The gentrification of the eastern London has undermined this dish, some newcomers preferring it to the cafes with oat milk or sourdough breads. Several brands had to lower the curtain.
But for regulars, “nostalgia” is at the heart of experience.
“I like changes, but this is not the case for all the inhabitants,” says Leanne Black, who has been working at G Kelly for 14 years.
This 45 -year -old woman, from eastern London, explains that many customers appreciate the place because he is comforting.
“It’s not just food. Some people have the impression that outside, the world has changed so much, and when they come here, it’s as if they went back in time, “she said to AFP.
“It’s the smell, the tables, the cold marble, the tiles,” she adds.
Neil Vening assures that his restaurant has a revival of attendance, carried by the latest to the neighborhood and … tourists.
At the same time, ex-habitants in eastern London who moved took the dish with them. Result? Dozens of “pie and mash” shops are now flourishing outside London.
